If you are concerned about the glue - replace it with a fresh bottle. It looks like Titebond 2 is ok for indirect food contact as well so maybe I’ll just stick with my tried and true. Why should I use epoxy vs titebond 3? I question him regularly. http://www.titebond.com/product/glues/e8d40b45-0ab3-49f7-8a9c-b53970f736af. So if you have a project that will be exposed to light water (cutting boards, outdoor furniture, etc..), Titebond II will suffice. Plus if they get wet during a relay I can dry them off right away. I use III for landscaping terrariums because it is food grade and doesn't degrade with consistent dampness. I sent email and called Titebond question this matter, but they don’t reply to me. Or ma'am. From my personal experience and reading, here's the summary: Titebond Original is cheap, but it's not waterproof or food-safe. I’d use Titebond II for outdoor … Titebond II Premium Wood Glue is the only leading brand, one-part wood glue that passes the ANSI Type II water-resistance specification. Better to spend a few dollars on new glue than to use something that is suspect. I’ve always used 2 for some reason so it seemed super thin to me. Titebond 3 is food safe for indirect contact. I like Titebond Original since it sets up much harder than some other glues. 95. 1 month ago Wood by Wright has done two rounds of a much more extensive and better-designed glue test. The list of players in Fighting Baseball was largely based on US baseball players, but for whatever reason the designer also borrowed heavily from the NHL. The master carpenter at my shop recently demonstrated the difference between the two glues. Yeah it's thinner. That's enough for me. It is stronger, not weaker. Not recommended for eating, but also I’m not your doctor. The difference between II and III is that III is waterproof and has a longer open time (10 minutes instead of 5). However, there are a few serious disadvantages. It is nontoxic, solvent free and cleans up with water. CA Glue (super glue). I understand it's decent for iron-on veneering, but aside from that I don't see much reason to use it. It is designed specifically for interior woodworking and repair projects, such as cabinets, trim and molding, window casings, furniture, picture frames, stairs, and veneering. I get gallons of TB 2 for about $15, which is a little cheaper than paint. I use II for walls and backgrounds that aren't exposed to water and III for the waterfalls and below water lever features. Titebond Quick & Thick Multi-Surface Glue (2-Pack), 8 oz. Titebond Polyurethane (and Gorilla Glue) is a goopy, foamy mess with a short shelf life and much lower strength (according to Fine Woodworking, ~80% as strong as Titebond Original for tight-fitting joints on domestic woods, and much worse than that with loose joints and exotic woods). Never use to have a problem with it, always loved it for the longer open time, but it seems much thinner than I remember from years ago, and it damn near melts out before I've got stuff assembled. For this reason, it is the glue that we recommend for making cutting boards. They test it by boiling and then stressing the still-wet joint. Another comment linked the Titebond site and it looks like 2 is FDA approved too so I guess it’s a toss up. Used TB3 on almost every single project I've ever done from cutting boards to bookcases. Free Shipping by Amazon. What type of strength testing did this guy do to show it was "significantly stronger?". Thanks for taking the time to respond! 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